Is air drying bad for your hair? Hairdressers weigh in

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Raise your hand if your hairdresser has ever told you that heat styling is a one-way ticket to unnecessary damage. This means that, along with avoiding straighteners and curling irons, you should air dry the hair to keep it as healthy as possible, right? Well, that may not be the case. In one now viral TikTokcosmetic chemist Javon Ford claims that new studies illustrate that using diffused heat to dry hair is actually less harmful than air drying.

If this information contradicts all stylists have told you because, well, always, you’re not alone. do it air drying really damage the hair? Is it time to get out your hair dryer and perfect your blowout skills at home? Don’t worry – we have all the answers. PS spoke to two professional hairdressers to get to the bottom of this and find out once and for all if air drying your hair isn’t as beneficial as we once thought.

Experts featured in this article

Marc Balance is a celebrity hairstylist at the IGK salon in New York City.

Mia Santiago is a celebrity hairdresser and founder of Headspace by Mia in Columbus, Ohio.

Does air drying hair cause damage?

According to celebrity hairstylist Marc Ballance, wet hair is more fragile than dry. Water essentially destabilizes the protein bonds that hold hair together, making it more susceptible to stretching and breakage. Have you ever noticed how brushing wet hair or tying it up results in extra shedding, more than when it’s dry? I am no accident.

Celebrity hairdresser Mia Santiago adds that the longer hair stays wet, the more prone it is to damage. AKA those with thicker, coarser hair that naturally holds extra water are at even greater risk of breakage.

The problems don’t stop at your ends either. “Wet hair can lead to excessive moisture on the scalp, which can lead to irritation or dandruff“, says Ballance. But if air drying works for you, you don’t have to completely change your routine. The key is create a method that works for your hair and your needs. More on that below, but first. . .

Is blow drying healthy?

There is a way to blow dry your hair that reduces damage and keeps it healthy – and it’s all in the technique. Rule number one? Use a low to medium heat setting and keep the airflow moving. “Don’t focus on one part of the hair for too long,” says Santiago. “This will reduce heat damage.”

The study indicates the exact distance at which you should hold the dryer: at least 15 centimeters away. Ballance also recommends angling the dryer down while you work. This seals the cuticle and smoothes the hair in the process to reduce frizz and give a silky effect.

Using a diffuser also reduces damage as it spreads the hot air over a larger area, helping the hair to dry faster and more evenly. Although diffusers are often marketed towards those with curly hair, anyone can benefit from drying their hair with one – especially if you have fine hair for an extra boost of volume.

Regardless of your method of drying your hair, experts emphasize the importance of using a heat protectant, such as Bumble and Bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protective Primer ($34), to prevent damage from heat styling.

What is the best way to air dry hair?

Let’s be clear: you can still have healthy hair if you air dry your hair. Using the right products will help strengthen peaks and give you the best results. Ballance recommends first replacing your regular towel with a microfiber towel, which Kitsch Microfiber Hair Towel ($23). Standard bath towels can be too rough on the hair. “Using a microfiber towel will keep your hair flat and reduce the amount of knots you have,” he says.

When hair is not too wet, gently detangle with a brush, then apply an air styling product designed to enhance your natural texture, increase shine and reduce frizz. Santiago suggests Ouai Air Dry Foam ($28) or Living Proof StyleLab Air-Dry Styling Cream ($34).

Ultimately, whether you air dry or blow dry your hair is a personal preference, and one isn’t necessarily better than the other as long as you use the right method. “There’s a big benefit to both; try each to see what works best for you,” says Santiago.

Mary Honkus is a freelance writer with over six years of experience in beauty, food, fashion, home and wellness. Since graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 2019, she has held staff positions at People, Real Simple, and InStyle, and her work can be found in Cosmopolitan, Prevention, WWD, Glamour, CNN, Forbes, Teen Vogue, and more.